Archive for the ‘Switch Panels’ Category

Marine electrical questions?

Marine Ac/Dc attempts to answer your questions about boat wiring and marine electrical techniques, concepts, and products. We get lots of mail from folks in mid-project or who are just curious about their boat’s electrical setup.

There are loads of post already on the site which we hope you will browse through. If you’re trying to track down info about a more specific category, please use the search box in the upper right of this page or check out the list of various subjects farther down on this page.

If you aren’t able to find the info that you need to complete your particular boat wiring project, please send us an email at boatwiring@gmail.com.

Thank you for visiting. We look forward to hearing from you and hope that you will be able to come back often.

Old switch for new wiper?

Hello Kevin,

I recently purchased an AFI 38000 2 speed wiper motor for my boat.

My boat doesn’t have a wiper, but has switches and wiring already. The problem is my boat wiring is for single speed wipers with Carling rocker switches for port and starboard with 3 prongs, grd,+ power,load- on-off. Marinco has a full line of wipers for your boat wiring project

I was wondering since I don’t have a heater if I could use that switch for the wiper. It is an ON-OFF-ON switch with 4 prongs, grd, load A, + power, load B, and it has a light built in it. I don’t know if I should connect the park wire to the + terminal, I’m afraid there might be a draw on the battery all the time.

If I can’t use that switch, do you know what switch I should use? I’d like to stick with the same design as the rest. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Larry

Hi Larry,

You can certainly use your heater switch for the wiper. Connect your park wire to the + terminal and your speeds to A and B. If you connect both wipers to the same switch, they will not shut off properly. The speed wires need to be independently wired to keep them from feeding back.

If you want them on the same switch, I would use a DPDT switch like this one. It will allow independent switching of both wipers.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Maxed Out

Kevin,

I recently bought a used boat. It was improperly grounded and burned some of the boat wiring out. My mechanic repaired several problems, but one problem still remains.

When you switch on the ignition most gauges jump to their maximum. For example the trim is maxed out to the right no matter at what level the outboard really is. The oil pressure gauge does nothing. The tachometer goes clear to the right. The speedometer goes to about 10 miles an hour and stays no matter what speed the boat is moving.

Other electric things work correctly, such as the horn, the starter motor, the trim mechanism, bilge pump, bilge blower, and so forth. The stereo system, the marine radio, and GPS seem to be non-functional.

What is that it that can cause all gauges to fail like this? By the way, the boat is a 2002 Chaparral 180SE with a Mercruiser 3XL engine and outdrive. The boat has been badly mistreated, and has required a lot of work to get it functioning again.

Thanks for any suggestions you can give.

Steve

Hi Steve,

It sounds like you have a combination of marine electrical problems.

My guess is that you have more burned out wires.

You should start by checking for 12 volts at each gauge. + on purple and – on black

Then, using an ohm meter check the following

  • Trim position – brown/white – 60 ohms down 11 ohms up
  • Oil pressure – lt blue – over 240 ohms 0 psi 33 ohms 80 psi
  • Fuel – pink – over 240 ohms empty 33 ohms full
  • Tach – gray – test for continuity through harness to engine

As for the speedo, check for a plugged or melted pitot hose, if so, replace the hose. You should also clean up the pickup and check for a bent axle on paddle wheel

Hope this helps,

Kevin

No down side to guessing

Kevin,

I am replacing a Sea Ray 225 Weekender ignition switch 4 prong with a new 4 prong.

I understand the boat wiring color scheme however there are two red and purple wires that are exactly alike that could be the battery or the assessory wire. The only difference in the two wires is that one of them has a white tag on it that says I 03.

Any ideas which goes to battery and which goes to accessory?

Andrew

Hi Andrew,

Unless the key switch breaks the connection between the ACC post and the BAT post when your are starting the engine, it really doesn’t matter.

You have two choices.

  1. Use a meter and test to see which wire has constant 12v+. This wire goes to the BAT post.
  2. Take a guess. You won’t hurt anything. If the ignition switch breaks the connection between the ACC post and BAT post during starting and your boat will not start, then you guessed wrong. Swap the wires and go boating.

Kevin

New Gauge System From Faria Instruments

The Faria Bus system is the next generation in marine electrical engine monitoring instrumentation. This system gives the boat builder a Digital Stepper Motor driven instruments with all of the accuracy that today’s engine ECUs provide. The Faria Bus system connects directly to a wide variety of engine protocol buses. Yet the boater sees only the simple to read, streamline gauges that they are accustomed to seeing.

Tachometer and Speedometer are available in 5-inch and 4-inch sizes, with and without Warning Lights. Discrete functions are displayed on 2-inch systems gauges or can be combined into a Multifunction gauge.

Features:

  • Single twisted pair wire connects all gauges
  • Serial Bus reliability
  • Connectorized cases
  • Waterproof connectors
  • Can digitally display information
  • Available in many Faria styles
  • Simplified boat wiring

Boat wiring resource for boat owners

Everyone at Marine Ac/Dc is very excited about the recent launch of EzAcDc. These guys could easily become the internet’s premier source for boat wiring systems and marine electrical components. Even with just their initial offering, they appear to be an excellent resource for boat owners.

EzAcDc offers engineered boat wiring solutions including:

We recommend their products and services without reservation.

Article about additional alternator

“…modern cruising vessels have high electrical demands, where refrigeration, radar, laptop computers and even plasma TVs are the norm. Keeping batteries charged is a challenge…”

This all too familiar problem is the basis of an excellent and very comprehensive article about adding a second alternator to an inboard boat by author Scott Fratcher.

You can find both this truly informative piece as well as a lot of other great information about boat wiring at easyacdc.com.

How to troubleshoot a boat wiring voltage drop

We received the following email from Jack about a problem that he is having with his Aqua Patio pontoon:

I have an on again off again electrical problem.

The boat is pontoon, Aqua Patio.  When boat was purchased the live well in rear had a factory problem.  the live well leaked over the switch mechanism; the boat yard rewired the system to a console accessory swich.  It worked for a few years but I am convinced it is a ground problem.

As soon as the motor receives current it works at a very low speed (not enough to pump).  The motor works when placed across the battery directly.  The voltage is 12 volts at the motor when turned on.  When the motor is hooked up and tested it may or may not work for a minute.  When motor is disconnected and the voltage remeasured the volt reading is somewhere between 2-6 volts.  I have voltage at the console but the same senario occurs when I connect and reconnect motor.

The boat is still out of the water so it is easier to track wiring.  It is so many splices because of the rewire that I hate to start cutting wires to isolate. The port and starboard rear courtesy lites I think do not work which are connected in the circuit.  Cell phone or portable courtesy lite receptacles are in the circuit (have never used but don’t think they work). The old switches that were part of the courtesy/live well circuits are disconnected and by-passed.

The new wiring to the console is blue to ground, the hot is brown.  The new circuit is connected to the black in 2-3 different places, of course, difficult places to get to, so dismantling is necessary.

Can you give me a starting point since it is difficult to trac this by yourself? Is there an isolation proceedure that can be done without cutting all the wiring?

Thanks.

Jack,

This is a common occurrence on boats that are made of metal.  Godfrey Marine, like every other pontoon builder, does not use the metal framework on the boat as a ground.  This helps prevent stray current corrosion (galvanic corrosion), but causes strange ground problems like the one you are having.

Another problem that occurs on pontoon boats is when the boat wiring harness is not properly secured to the underside of the deck.  Even if properly secured, wires can be damaged even under normal use, e.g., the wires could be caught by the trailer or perhaps damaged during a “stunt docking” maneuver.  Whatever the cause, the boat wiring may now be able to make intermittent contact with the metal framework of the boat.  While the resistance is high enough to not trip the breaker or blow the fuse, it can still cause extremely low voltage readings under load conditions.

The best solution to your problem is to run two new wires to your live well pump.  Disconnect the existing wires.  Connect a new ground wire from the negative of the live well pump (usually black wire) to your battery negative or a negative buss near the battery.  Connect a new live well power wire from the positive of the live well pump (usually brown) to the accessory switch on your console.  I would recommend using at least a 16AWG good quality tinned copper boat wire.

This is my simplest solution to your situation.

Good luck,

Kevin

Boat wiring color chart published

Our friends at EasyAcDc.com have done a great job of putting together a comprehensive listing of marine industry boat wiring colors.

This site continually provides DIY boaters with truly helpful information about boat wiring.

Tinned boat wiring

We recently came across a great piece on boat wiring that addresses the advantages of always using tinned wire.

After making a strong case for spending the (slightly) increased cost for tinned wire, EasyAcDc goes on to cite several boat builders who do just that, including Manitou Pontoons, Crest Pontoons, and Rinker. They then wonder why more builders don’t follow this sensible lead.

It’s an excellent read that we highly recommend.