Archive for the ‘Harnesses’ Category

Marine electrical questions?

June 28th, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Marine Ac/Dc attempts to answer your questions about boat wiring and marine electrical techniques, concepts, and products. We get lots of mail from folks in mid-project or who are just curious about their boat’s electrical setup.

There are loads of post already on the site which we hope you will browse through. If you’re trying to track down info about a more specific category, please use the search box in the upper right of this page or check out the list of various subjects farther down on this page.

If you aren’t able to find the info that you need to complete your particular boat wiring project, please send us an email at boatwiring@gmail.com.

Thank you for visiting. We look forward to hearing from you and hope that you will be able to come back often.

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Wiring, Bow Thruster, Circuit Protection, Corrosion, Cruisers, Gauge Panels, Harnesses, Marine Electrical, Navigation Lights, Pontoons, Runabouts, Signaling Devices, Switch Panels, Testing, Trolling Motors, Uncategorized, VSR, Wipers | Comments Off

Boat Wiring Colors

February 6th, 2012 by Marine Ac/Dc

Hello Kevin,

I am looking to find a boat wiring diagram to rewire my 1996 17 foot Key West boat. EzAcDc offers a full selection of boat wiring for your marine electrical project.

I will need the complete wiring schematics for this model. Do you have this information or can you tell me where I can find it online and print in order to start my repairs tomorrow?

Thanks for your help, I look forward to hearing back from you

Marco

Hi Marco,

I’m sorry, but we do not have a boat wiring diagram available for your boat and you will probably not find one.

But, this list of standard boat wiring colors for marine electrical should get you close. Most boat builders have been using this code or one very similar for over twenty years.

Kevin

Posted in ABYC, AC Wiring, Air Conditioning, Anchor Lights, Battery cables, Battery Charger, Bilge Pumps, Blower, Boat Lift, Boat Wiring, Bow Light, Bow Thruster, Compass, Courtesy Lights, Fuel Gauge, Fuel Sender, Galley, Harnesses, Ignition Switch, LED Lights, Marine Electrical, Masthead Lights, Mood Lights, Navigation Lights, Pontoons, Refrigerator, Rope Lights, Sailboats, Shore Power, Shore Station, Signaling Devices | Comments Off

Glen-L Wiring

January 30th, 2012 by Marine Ac/Dc

Kevin,

I am building a 16′ wooden bass boat using the Glen-L design and it is about 80% complete. I am now getting ready to outfit the interior, build the helm, purchase my motor, etc.

I have visited your sister boat wiring site and it looks like just what I will need due to its simplified “plug and play ” approach. What I am looking for is advice on everything I will need to wire my boat using EzAcDc marine electrical.

My boat wiring needs include:

In summary, I need everything and look to your recommendation to help me get what I need to fully wire my boat from the boat wiring harness to fuses, circuit breakers, switches, etc.

Thank you.

Kelly

Hi Kelly,

Your boat sounds great! Thank you for your interest in the products at our sister site.

Here is the boat wiring that I would recommend.

  • Fully wired eight switch marine electrical panel. This comes with one panel mounted 12 volt receptacle and you will want to add a second remote outlet.
  • Boat wiring harness that quickly snaps together with the panel above.
  • Smart Battery Switch system for two batteries. This includes cables, ground bus, and you will want to add a couple of battery boxes.
  • Navigation lights are controlled by the nav/anc switch in your new switch panel. Wiring for split red and green lights and a single white stern light is included with the boat wiring harness. The site has a variety of Attwood LED navigation light kits that may suite your needs. All come with connectors so that they will snap right onto the new harness.
  • I would run 8 AWG tinned wire for your trolling motor.
  • Please send me the specs and length of total wire run for the power winch to determine the cable size requirements.
  • Currently we do not stock a trolling motor connection. My preference in the Marinco Connect Pro System.
  • You can use one of the switches on the new panel for the stereo. The new panel will even include a pre-printed “STEREO” switch cap. There is a ground, constant power (memory), and switched power coming off of the back of the switch for a stereo. We do not include speaker wire.
  • The boat wiring harness has two breakouts for courtesy lights. The switch panel kit also includes a “COURTESY LIGHTS” switch cap.
  • We do not have fish finders, but you can get power for your fish finder from one of the breakers on your new switch panel.
  • The switch panel comes pre-wired with a horn button and the boat harness includes wiring for a horn.
  • We also have boat horns that will attach easily onto the new harness.
  • We do not have gauges. Most of the gauge wiring will be included with your engine harness.
  • Our harness comes with one bilge pump and auto float switch connection. You can either run a second pump from one of the switch panel accessory wire breakouts or you can use the livewell pump breakout for a second pump.
  • No additional fuse panel is needed. The switches have circuit breakers mounted directly below them on the panel. The main harness battery connection has an in-line circuit breaker for harness protection.

Thank you again for your consideration. I hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

My boat anchor winch is the Deck Mate 19 Small Boat Anchor Windlass from West Marine. The draw is 15 amps @ 12 volts and the winch includes a built in 15A circuit breaker. The length of wire from the helm to the power winch at the bow is roughly 9 feet. Please advise cable size requirement.

Thank you.

Kelly

Hi Kelly,

18′ run total @ 15 amps with 3% drop, I would run 10 AWG wire.

Kevin

Posted in Anchor Lights, Battery cables, Battery Switch, Bilge Pumps, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Bow Light, Circuit Protection, Courtesy Lights, Engine Harness, Fuel Gauge, Gauge Panels, Harnesses, Harnesses-DC, Horn, LED Lights, Marine Electrical, Masthead Lights, Navigation Lights, Rope Lights, Smart Battery Switch, Switch Panels, Trolling Motors, VSR | Comments Off

Sailboat Rewire

January 2nd, 2012 by Marine Ac/Dc

Hello Kevin,

I’m beginning a large boat wiring project on my 38 foot sailboat.

I have purchased new marine electrical panels and switches, and am beginning the wiring plan.

I need to know how to properly support the wires. For example, is conduit to be used…wrap around protective sheathing? The existing boat wiring (which was automotive wiring), had large lengths of wrap around plastic protective sheathing that looked to be flammable.

Please advise.

Thank you,

Earl

Hi Earl,

Per the ABYC, American Boat and Yacht Council, boat wiring must be supported every 18″ and any loom must be self extinguishing.

My preference self-extinguishing, split loom with cable ties every 12-15″. Make sure to add cable ties on each side of marine electrical bus bars and modular connectors. Even though these terminals are required to resist a 6 lb. pull test, it is better to take the extra time in installation than waste your time troubleshooting.

FYI, usually a blue tracer line on the split loom signifies self extinguishing.

Happy wiring.

Please send pictures of your project.

Kevin

Posted in ABYC, AC Wiring, Battery cables, Boat Wiring, Cruisers, Harnesses, Marine Electrical, Marine Engines | Comments Off

Custom Marine Electrical Panels?

November 28th, 2011 by Marine Ac/Dc

Hi Kevin,

I found your sister operation, EzAcDc boat wiring on Ed Sherman’s site.

I am about to rewire my 42 foot ketch with new boat wiring and distribution/breaker panel.EzAcDc also has a complete kit to rewire you existing switch panels - a big part of any boat wiring project.

I have HF radio (35 A), water pump, sewage treatment (both 15A), VHF radio (8A)fridge (3A), plus the usual internal lights and external nav lights. No power winches or other serous current devices, other than of course the Yanmar 54 bhp starter battery and motor. I have a 300 AHr ships battery bank (3 x 100 AHr) and a 900 CCA starter battery.

Your marine electrical panels look interesting and also the boat wiring harnesses seem well made and should simplify installations.

Can EzAcDc supply panels suitable for larger numbers of circuits? What form do your harnesses take, can I get lengths custom made if I provide lengths?

Johnson

Hi Johnson,

At this time our partner sites, EzAcDc and Boat Wiring Store, do not produce custom switch panels and boat wiring harnesses.

Usually, when expanding an EzAcDc system, our customers purchase a fully wired marine electrical switch panel and then purchase either an unloaded switch panel or an unwired switch panel to install in conjunction with the fully wired system.

This give them the ability to have a second switch panel made from the same material and same switch style. We offer a complete line of tinned boat wiring and marine electrical connectors so they can custom wire the second panel to their needs.

Hope this helps.

Please let us know if you have any questions,

Posted in AC Wiring, Anchor Lights, Battery cables, Bilge Pumps, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Bow Light, Bow Thruster, Courtesy Lights, Cruisers, Gauge Panels, Harnesses-Dash, Harnesses-DC, Horn, Marine Electrical, Masthead Lights, Navigation Lights, Switch Panels | Comments Off

O’Day Dilemma

November 14th, 2011 by Marine Ac/Dc

Hello Kevin,

My boat wiring question is:

I have a 1979 37′ O’Day sailboat, with an Aft Cabin with the original 4 breaker terminal mounted on the locker.

When I bought the boat in 2000, I replaced the existing Loran with radar and wired it into the panel where the Loran had been and added a VHF radio to the back of the panel. Both have individual fuse protection. O'day Sailboat

Everything has worked fine until a few weeks ago when I noticed I have no power to the panel – cabin lights, engine room light, radar, radio, and autopilot do not work.

Both the positive and negative lines from the main power source in the forward part of the boat were tested by me and tested good.

I was told that it could be a ground problem. I looked at the negative marine electrical bus bar inside the locker and what is there are the negative wires from the accessories and the negative wire from the main bank in the forward part of the boat. There was also another 10 gauge wire but not attached to anything.

Should there be a ground wire attached to the buss bar to the engine and could this wire be my problem in that it somehow become disconnected?

I installed a new six breaker panel replacing the original; I installed a new 30 amp terminal (6 terminals) inside the locker and ran each accessory positive to it and then from there to the panel; Each accessory negative goes directly to the to the bus bar along with the 10 gauge negative wire from the main power source. The new panel has a negative bar which I also attached to the bus bar.

I then turned on each switch and they all light up meaning power is there. But when I turn on any of the accessories at the actual device they do not work and all the panel lights go off. When I turn off the individual accessory the panel lights will go back on. This happens with each item- cabin lights, engine room light, radio, radar, auto pilot.

Can you help me?

Confused

Jordan

Hi Jordan,

The problem is either in the feed wire or the ground wire.

The best way to find your problem is to test voltage levels when the system is under a load.

The panel indicator lights will initially turn on because the low current draw of the lights induces a small voltage drop in the wire. When you turn on a higher draw device, the voltage drop increases and the light turns off.

You will probably find a bad cable connection or hidden splice.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Thank you for your response.

While waiting to hear back from you, I continued to investigate the problem.

Although I found numerous other problems as the O’Day has the original wiring, the cause for the failure was due to corrosion inside the positive wire where it entered into the front panel for power. As I tried to pull the wire to locate it, it broke off and was corroded inside the insulation. The joys of an old boat.

I have rewired the entire aft by replacing all the wires and panel and everything is back in order.

Regards,

Jordan

Posted in Anchor Lights, Battery cables, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Circuit Protection, Corrosion, Cruisers, Galley, Gauge Panels, Ground Issues, Harnesses-Dash, Harnesses-DC, Marine Electrical, Masthead Lights, Sailboats, Switch Panels, Testing, Voltmeter | Comments Off

Reverse Engineering

November 9th, 2011 by Marine Ac/Dc

Dear Kevin,

Thank you for all your boat wiring advice which I find very useful.

With regards to your post, Excellent Mileage from October 3rd, 2011, does the explanation also apply to reverse readings on the boat’s fuel gauge?

  • Full tank but empty on gauge
  • Removed sending unit, moved sensor to bottom
  • Gauge shows full.

I switch the wire around but with same results.Attwood has the marine industry's best solutions for installed fuel systems

Thanks!

Gary

Hi Gary,

It sounds like something has gone haywire with your fuel gauge or sender.

Most fuel gauges read a sensor that is 240 ohms at empty and 33 ohms at full.

  • Test the sender with an ohm meter. 240 ohms down and 33 ohms full.
  • Test the gauge with ground wire.
  • No wire connected to the gauge sending wire stud, empty.
  • Wire connected to the gauge send wire and to ground, full.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Thank you for your quick reply.

While surfing around on the net I managed to find this answer on the Wema site

I hope that it will help other boat owners who wish to change their gauges or senders.

Cheers and best regards!

Gary

Posted in Boat Wiring, Cruisers, Fuel Gauge, Fuel Sender, Gauge Panels, Ground Issues, Harnesses-Dash, Harnesses-DC, Marine Electrical, Pontoons, Sailboats | Comments Off

Only two to go

October 31st, 2011 by Marine Ac/Dc

Kevin,

I have a Quicksilver tilt and trim gauge i got on ebay.

On the back their is four connections one is L , one is I , one is S and the middle one is a ground.

I think the L is for the light , I do not know where the other two go to. This will be going on a 1998 Procraft bass boat with a 115 Mercury two stroke engine.

Is there somewhere I can get a boat wiring diagram or can you please tell me were the other two go? Procraft bass boat

Thank you,

Larry

Hi Larry,

Here is how to set up your boat wiring.

  • L is light
  • I is for ignition/12 volt power
  • S is for the sending unit connected to the engine
  • G is for ground

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Boat Wiring, Engine Harness, Harnesses, Marine Electrical, Marine Engines | Comments Off

Automatic Attwood

August 22nd, 2011 by Marine Ac/Dc

Kevin,

Hello and thank you in advance.

I have an Attwood bilge pump that I would like to install. It has wires with three colors – black white and green.

I want to connect the pump to a switch which is labeled Automatic, Off and Manual. The wires on the pump are Positive, Manual Positive, and Negative.

Could you please tell me which wire goes where?

Norma

Hi Norma,

Here is how to set up the boat wiring for your new Attwood pump:

At bilge pump:

  • Black wire to pump negative
  • White wire to pump positive
  • Green wire to pump manual positive

At the switch:

  • Black wire to ground (not on switch)
  • White wire to automatic
  • Green wire to manual

Supply power to switch using appropriate circuit protection.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Bilge Pumps, Boat Batteries, Circuit Protection, Cruisers, Harnesses-DC, Marine Electrical | Comments Off

Harness Help

August 15th, 2011 by Marine Ac/Dc

Hello Kevin,

How do I find an engine harness?

I am looking for a boat wiring harness for a 1981 Mercruiser model 470. I would like to get the proper one as I am mechanically challenged but can follow instructions well.Boat wiring harness

Is there any chance that you can help me out and point me in the right direction.

Thank you.

Benny

Hi Benny,

My recommendation would be to look at eBasicPower. They have a large assortment of engine harnesses for Mercruisers.

Kevin

Posted in Boat Wiring, Engine Harness, Harnesses, Marine Electrical, Marine Engines | Comments Off
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