Category Archives: LED Lights

Outlets Out


My 1989 280DA Sea Ray’s shore input was plugged into a 110 volt system at my house. The batteries were being pulled down all the time because I was in the process of changing out all the incandescent lights for LED fixtures, and rewiring as I went. Marinco inlet

So, I plugged a battery charger into one of my 110 outlets, and turned it on. The battery charger shorted out. After that none of the 110 receptacles worked.

I have replaced the circuit breaker on the main panel, and have replaced the GFI outlets in the boat. (One guy told me it must be the charger/converter (Professional Mariner New Pro 20/35 3 Bank) So I pulled that out where I could get a look at it. However, I get good 12 volt output from it when it is hooked to a 110v source.

I am not sure what else to do.

Any ideas? If so I would sure appreciate your advice.



Hi Ron,

I would start at the panel to see if you have AC power.

Using a meter, check for AC voltage on both the line and load side of the circuit breaker. Also, check for power when a load, such as the charger is connected. If you have power at the breaker, check at all outlets in the series as they make their way to the battery charger.

You will probably find a bad connection in the line between the ac panel assembly and the charger outlet.

Hope this helps,


Boat Wiring Colors

Hello Kevin,

I am looking to find a boat wiring diagram to rewire my 1996 17 foot Key West boat. EzAcDc offers a full selection of boat wiring for your marine electrical project.

I will need the complete wiring schematics for this model. Do you have this information or can you tell me where I can find it online and print in order to start my repairs tomorrow?

Thanks for your help, I look forward to hearing back from you


Hi Marco,

I’m sorry, but we do not have a boat wiring diagram available for your boat and you will probably not find one.

But, this list of standard boat wiring colors for marine electrical should get you close. Most boat builders have been using this code or one very similar for over twenty years.


Glen-L Wiring


I am building a 16′ wooden bass boat using the Glen-L design and it is about 80% complete. I am now getting ready to outfit the interior, build the helm, purchase my motor, etc.

I have visited your sister boat wiring site and it looks like just what I will need due to its simplified “plug and play ” approach. What I am looking for is advice on everything I will need to wire my boat using EzAcDc marine electrical.

My boat wiring needs include:

In summary, I need everything and look to your recommendation to help me get what I need to fully wire my boat from the boat wiring harness to fuses, circuit breakers, switches, etc.

Thank you.


Hi Kelly,

Your boat sounds great! Thank you for your interest in the products at our sister site.

Here is the boat wiring that I would recommend.

  • Fully wired eight switch marine electrical panel. This comes with one panel mounted 12 volt receptacle and you will want to add a second remote outlet.
  • Boat wiring harness that quickly snaps together with the panel above.
  • Smart Battery Switch system for two batteries. This includes cables, ground bus, and you will want to add a couple of battery boxes.
  • Navigation lights are controlled by the nav/anc switch in your new switch panel. Wiring for split red and green lights and a single white stern light is included with the boat wiring harness. The site has a variety of Attwood LED navigation light kits that may suite your needs. All come with connectors so that they will snap right onto the new harness.
  • I would run 8 AWG tinned wire for your trolling motor.
  • Please send me the specs and length of total wire run for the power winch to determine the cable size requirements.
  • Currently we do not stock a trolling motor connection. My preference in the Marinco Connect Pro System.
  • You can use one of the switches on the new panel for the stereo. The new panel will even include a pre-printed “STEREO” switch cap. There is a ground, constant power (memory), and switched power coming off of the back of the switch for a stereo. We do not include speaker wire.
  • The boat wiring harness has two breakouts for courtesy lights. The switch panel kit also includes a “COURTESY LIGHTS” switch cap.
  • We do not have fish finders, but you can get power for your fish finder from one of the breakers on your new switch panel.
  • The switch panel comes pre-wired with a horn button and the boat harness includes wiring for a horn.
  • We also have boat horns that will attach easily onto the new harness.
  • We do not have gauges. Most of the gauge wiring will be included with your engine harness.
  • Our harness comes with one bilge pump and auto float switch connection. You can either run a second pump from one of the switch panel accessory wire breakouts or you can use the livewell pump breakout for a second pump.
  • No additional fuse panel is needed. The switches have circuit breakers mounted directly below them on the panel. The main harness battery connection has an in-line circuit breaker for harness protection.

Thank you again for your consideration. I hope this helps,



My boat anchor winch is the Deck Mate 19 Small Boat Anchor Windlass from West Marine. The draw is 15 amps @ 12 volts and the winch includes a built in 15A circuit breaker. The length of wire from the helm to the power winch at the bow is roughly 9 feet. Please advise cable size requirement.

Thank you.


Hi Kelly,

18′ run total @ 15 amps with 3% drop, I would run 10 AWG wire.


Light Motif

Hi Kevin,

Quick question.

I am going to buy and install courtesy lights under the boat seats in a friend’s cuddy cabin.

Could you please tell me if there are any specifications that I should be aware of? Since these will be running off the battery, do I have to get DC specific lights? Any recommendations as to the boat wiring?

Thanks,Vista is one of the top suppliers of marine electrical lighting for your boat wiring project


Hi John,

You will need to buy DC specific lights. You will also need to know if the system is 12 or 24 volts. The higher voltage lights will illuminate at the lower voltages, but will be dim. For example, 120v lights will operate at about 10% output if a 12v supply is applied. They would last forever, but would be dim. Too low a rating, they would be bright, but short lived.

They will be labeled in the form…12vdc…10 watt.

Hope this helps,


Masthead Wiring

KevinAttwood is the world's top source for LED navigation lights

My boat wiring question relates to 12 volt LED navigation lights on top of mast that is 75 feet tall.

The power draw on the navigation lights is less than 0.5 amps each for the white LED anchor light and red and green combo light.

What size boat wiring should be used?

Is there a four conductor tinned wire in the US that is appropriate? In Europe there is an Italian brand tecnikabel. Does your partner marine electrical site offer something like that?



Hi Mary,

Attwood LED navigation lights are a great addition to any boat, but are especially suited for sailboats.

If you are trying to maintain a 3% drop or less, you can be up to 156 feet total wire (source of power to light and back to ground) if the light draws 0.5 amps and still use 16 AWG wire. At 0.4 amps this goes up to 195 feet.

Here is a link to my wire size calculator for future reference.

Ancor makes a great 16-4 jacketed, tinned cable that would work well for your application.

Hope this helps,


Nav Light Switch


I’m wondering if you could help me with a boat wiring question related to my boat navigation lights?

On my boat, the white, all-round masthead light was installed on the windshield, which meant no vision at night because the whole bow lights up. I would like to move it to my radar arch where I already have a dedicated, 2 wire LED light.

I pulled the switched 12 volt wire from the windshield that powered the mast light in the “NAV” position up to my radar arch. I can’t figure out how to wire everything so it’ll work the way I would like.

Under the arch I now have two switched leads: one in the “Nav” position and the other in the “Anc” position. My all around light has two leads, + and -.

With the switch facing the same way it’s installed in the dash, here’s what I get on each of the 6 switch terminals in each of the 3 possible positions (—– is a terminal)Attwood is the world's top supplier of navigation lighting

Switch OFF (in the middle)

( ) — —- ( )
(+) — —- (+)
( ) — —- (-)

Switch “NAV” (Up)

( ) — —- (+)
(+) — —- (+)
(+) — —- (+)

Switch “Anc” (down)

(+) — —- (+)
(+) — —- (+)
(+) — —- ( -)

Do you know how I set up the boat wiring so the all-around lights switches on by itself in the “ANC” position and goes on with my other running lights (port/stb and stern) in the “NAV” position?

I would appreciate any ideas!



Hi Bob,

If you want your all-round white light to illuminate by itself in the anc position and with the red/green bow lights in the nav position, connect the + lead of the all round light to the lower left hand terminal on your switch. Keep any jumper wires intact that may run from the top to the bottom of the switch.

Per your schematic, this terminal has power in the up (nav) and the down (anc) position. Your red/green navigation lights should be connected to the lower right terminal on the switch.

Good luck,


AC Lights. DC Power.


I have a 26 foot, 1979 Sea Ray Sundancer.

I have recently added LED rope lights to my boat wiring. They are in the front berth but are AC powered. I put a 400 watt converter off a 12 volt battery for the lights. I am trying to put a switch at the helm and in the front berth, so I can turn on the converter for the rope lights at ether location.Vista is the marine industry's top supplier of waterproof LED lights

Do you have any boat wiring suggestions for this project?


Hi Randy,

The closer the inverter is to the battery, the smaller with DC wiring will need to be.

A 400 watt inverter will draw a max of 33 amps. Most common marine DC switches are rated at a max of 20 amps. So, if your switch is not rated to handle this high current, you will need to use a relay.

As will all wiring, use appropriate circuit protection as close as possible to the source of power. The USCG standard is within 7″ with some exceptions.

Hope this helps,