Archive for the ‘Pontoons’ Category

Diode Does It

Hello,

I am looking for a schematic on the proper boat wiring for the navigation /anchor light switch on my 1990 Sea Ray.

I have a five wire posts, three posts on one side and two on the other. The center post carries the power and the other four post on each corner is for what???

Barrel diodeMy situations is that the boat navigation lights in the front come on along with the dash lights and switch light, but no stern light.Then I switch to anchor lights and the back light comes on, but the switch light does not come on.

I noticed a jumper wire from the post in one corner to the other corner of the same side that look like it was broken, so I replaced and now all the lights come on in both direction of the toggle switch. Is there a special jumper wire? Because when I cut out the jumper wire it was a solid wire with a “end keeper”, a small metal tip in the center of the wire.

Please help.

Thanks
Rich

Hi Rich,

The original jumper had a diode in it. It acts as a one way valve for the current to stern light when the forward lights are on, but block the flow when your only stern light is selected. You can buy HERE at Radio Shack.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Gauge Wiring

Kevin,

I have a typical 1975 Cruisers Yacht that is 25 feet long with a 350 engine.

I think that I have a speedometer, tachometer and voltmeter for the guages.

My question is:

How do I connect the boat wiring from my transmission to my gauges so that they operate properly?

DB

Hi DB

Setting up the boat wiring for gauges is simple.

The boat speedometer usually works from water pressure. There is a small tube that runs through the boat back to a small plastic pitot pickup on the back of your boat.

The tachometer and voltage meter are both powered by the switched power (usually purple) from your ignition switch. On your engine, the tachometer will get it’s signal from the negative side of the igntion coil.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Which Wire Where?

Kevin,

I have a 2004 Trophy 2002 boat with dual batteries and a battery switch (off, 1, 2 both).Boat Wiring Store offers the internet's most complete line of battery cables.

I am confused with the boat wiring for the batteries.

  • The battery on the left facing the back of the boat has two wires. I assume red for positive and yellow is negative. I really can’t see where they are coming from.
  • The other battery  where the battery switch is located has a red wire coming from the battery switch which I assume is positive and a yellow coming from a grounding block (at least that what it looks like) which I assume is negative to the battery.

Then I have two more wires one black and one yellow. I assumed negative but not sure if I am correct and what they are for. Do you have any explanation if I connected these wires correctly or what those two extra wires are for?

Thanks,

Frank

Hi Frank,

Before making any assumptions on which wires connect to which posts on your battery, I strongly recommend tracing them to their origin.

In general, Red is battery positive and Black or Yellow is battery negative.

If you trace the red wires to a battery switch or distribution panel, you can assume these are the positive leads.

If you trace the yellow and black to a ground bus or engine negative terminal, you can assume these are the negative leads.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Ammeter Wiring

Kevin,

I have a 1998 Trojan 400 Express (built by Carver). I accidentally shorted out my port side ammeter and lost the ability to conduct current through the wire to the meter. I checked the meter and it functions. I can’t easily trace this boat wiring to its origin. Faria ammeter

Is this wire fused? It was always hot, whether the battery switch was on or off. I don’t see it attaching directly at the battery, so I think it may originate at the input side of the battery selector switch.

I would appreciate any information you can share on this.

Thank you for your consideration.

Rich

Hi Rich,

The ammeter is usually a direct connection to the alternator output.

To protect the wire, there should be an inline fuse or circuit breaker near the alternator. The fuse may be a fuseable link the looks like a smaller piece of wire.

Good luck,

Kevin

Hull Ground?

Hi Kevin,

My aluminum boat wiring has the negative returns and negative side of the battery all tied to the hull.

I would like to isolate the negative return and run all negative returns to the battery with the hull isolated.

My question is: What do I ground the aluminum fuel tank to? It is connected to the hull.

Thanks,

Scott

Hi Scott,

Grounding to an aluminum hull is un-avoidable. Some components just end up being connected. You are actually at risk of even greater galvanic corrosion if the hull is not tied to the negative side of your system.

I would recommending running grounds for all components and not using the hull as a conductor. To comply with the USCG requirements, the metal components on your fuel tank (the tank itself) need to be connected to the boat’s DC negative ground also.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

New Boat Wiring Colors?

Kevin,

I now see an Ancor duplex wire cable in 10/2 with red and yellow wire. Ancor boat wiring

What is this used for as the colors are not standard? At least what I read. Is there a new boat wiring color code?

Thanks

Chuck

Hi Chuck,

For boat wiring that includes both AC and DC systems, it is now acceptable to use yellow as the DC ground to prevent confusion between the AC hot (black) and the DC negative (black).

Most OEM boat builders have adopted this color standard.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Wiring a boat switch panel

Hi expert people:

Last year, I purchased one of the fully-wired switch panels from EzAcDc, but I still haven’t gotten around to installing it and find that I have some questions:Boat wiring

  1. I have two wires from the green and red bow light and two wires from the white stern light. Are these the navigation lights? And how do these four wires attach to the switch panel?
  2. I have two halogen head lamps with two wires from each. Where do these wires attach?
  3. I have two sealed beam cabin lights with two wires from each. Where do these wires attach?
  4. I have an on/off bilge pump with two wires. Where do these two wires attach?
  5. I have an air horn with two male blades on the pump and a little black box with four male blades and a hieroglyphic on the side with the numbers 85,87,86 and 30 & 12V 30A–no wires. How do these attach to my horn switch at the switch panel?
  6. I would like to add a stereo to the panel since there are two existing speakers mounted in the cab. How and where do I hook this up?
  7. The boat has an existing ground bar which I have wired to the battery switch and a fuse bar which I have wired to the battery switch positive pole.
  8. I have 10 AWG wires from the two batteries to the battery switch and 10 AWG wires from the battery switch which attach to the negative. bar and the fuse bar. The exception is the two engine wires which appear to be 4 AWG. Will this work OK?
  9. There does not appear to be any empty blades at any of the switches so I don’t know how to wire the switches to the wires which come from the lights, horn, bilge and other yet to be purchased accessories etc.
  10. What is the purpose of the voltmeter?
  11. I have attempted to remove a wire from the back of one of the switches but it wont budge. Is this a malfunction or are these wires not meant to be removed?

I have read all the posts on your website as well as numerous other posts on many other boat wiring websites but still want to make sure that I am doing this correctly.

These must be boring, inane questions to someone like yourself who obviously knows electricity and components, but I need help.

Thanks,

Ken

Hi Ken,

The easiest way to connect your boat’s components to your new panel is by using the 6″ long adaptor harness that you should have received from our partners at Ez. It has a large white 12 position plug that connects directly to your panel and the blue butt connectors connect to your boat’s components.

The adaptor wires follow standard boat wiring colors. That is…

  • Black – Ground – Must go to battery or negative buss
  • Brown/Orange – Aerator
  • RED – 12v power
  • Gray/Black – Docking Lights
  • Gray/Blue – Anchor/Stern Light
  • Gray/Green – Navigation/Bow Light
  • Orange/White – Horn
  • Brown – Bilge Manual
  • Blue – Courtesy Light
  • Brown/Red – Bilge Auto

Here is what you will want to do:

  • One wire from each of the red and green navigation lights will connect to the gray/green wire in the adaptor. The other wire from each of the lights will connect to DC ground.
  • One wire from your white stern light will connect to the gray/blue wire in the adapt0r. The other wire from your light will connect to DC ground.
  • One wire from each of your head lights will connect to the gray/black wire in the adaptor. The other wire from each of the lights will connect to the DC ground.
  • One wire from each of your cabin lights will connect to the blue wire in the adaptor. The other wire from each of the lights will connect to the DC ground.
  • The brown wire from your bilge pump will connect to the brown wire in the adaptor. The other wire from your pump will connect to DC ground.
  • Your air horn is more complex. The orange/white wire will connect to 86 on the relay. Here is a link to complete your horn wiring.

Having said all that, a simpler solution to all of this would be to purchase one of the EzAcDc Snap Together boat wiring harness.

Any of these harnesses contain all of the wires required to connect your red/green/white navigation lights, your head light/docking lights, your courtesy lights, and your bilge pump. There is a 12 position connector on the harness that will plug directly into your panel. They also include the power wire (with circuit protection) and ground wire required by your panel.

Your stereo can connect to one of the 3 position accessory plugs on the panel. Use the black for ground and the red for your positive.

Here is a schematic that shows how I recommend wiring a battery switch. Note the battery cable sizes. If your engine battery cables are connected to your ground bus and battery switch, your 10 AWG wire will overheat when you try to start your engine.

When you push the voltage button, the voltmeter will show you the current voltage of your battery and how much “fun time” you have left until your battery is dead.

If you use the adaptor, there is no need to remove wires from the back of the switches. In the event that you would like to remove a wire from one of the switches, I recommend using a flat screw driver. All of the switch terminals are .250 faston connectors. The back of the switch has .250 tabs on the back similar to the ones on the horn relay.

I hope that this is helpful.

Please let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin

Compass Light

Kevin,

I would like to connect the compass back light wiring (two wire lead) to either the navigation light circuit or the gauge lighting circuit. Both have separate switches.
The boat is a 1998 Bayliner 2452, which has had a few amateur boat wiring projects.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.Ritchie Compass

Thanks,
John

Hi John,

The simplest way to connect your compass light is to wire it to your closest instrument.

  • Connect one of the compass wires to the ground on the gauge and the other to the light power wire on the gauge.
  • The ground should have a black wire connected to it end the light should have a blue wire connected to it.

Happy wiring,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thank you for the prompt reply. Sounds like a pretty straight forward connection.

John

Kevin’s Breaking Point

Kevin,

I love your articles about marine electrical. I’ve been reading loads of them and have learned a lot Thank you.

There is still one boat wiring thing that I can’t find an answer for.

I was in a friend’s boat and he said he has been having some issues with the DC circuits on his boat wiring, specifically, the fact that he has trouble running more than a few instruments without blowing a breaker.

I looked at his DC distribution panel and was a bit confused when I noticed that as you turn OFF breakers, the amperage needle goes down? I always thought your meter showed total output and as you turned ON breakers acquiring a load the needle would drop. And turning things OFF the needle would return to show full output?

Am I missing something here?

Michael

Hi Michael,

The amp-meter is measuring total current being consumed. The more items on, the more current – fewer items means less current.

It is easier to explain with water.

When all of the faucets are turned off in my house, no water is flowing, and the city water meter is not turning. This would be similar to all devices turned off on the boat…no current on the amp-meter. When my kids flush every toilet, leave on every faucet, and turn on the sprinkler system at the same time, there is a ton of water flowing (high current on the amp-meter) and I “pop a breaker”.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

How many VSRs?

Kevin,

I have a 1988 32′ Bayliner with two engines. There are four batteries on the boat: two for starting -one battery for each engine – and two batteries for the house.

I am considering the addition of a VSR smart battery switch to my marine electrical. How would I do the boat wiring for this? Would I need more than one VSR?1988 Bayliner 32

Also, I have two battery selector switches, one for each bank, shore power, and battery charger.

Bill

Hi Bill,

I would recommend two VSRs for your application. One between your port engine and house battery and another between your starboard engine and house battery.

Each VSR would be connected around your battery switches.

  • Run an 8 awg wire from one VSR terminal to the BAT1 post on your battery switch and another 8 awg wire from the other VSR terminal to the BAT2 post on your battery switch.
  • Bat 1 for each switch will be the respective engine battery and Bat 2 will be the house battery bank.
  • Under normal operation, put both battery switches in Pos1. The engine will charge its battery first and then charge the house battery bank.
  • If only one engine is running or only one alternator is working, once the house battery has charged above 13/7 volts, the VSR on the other engine will engage and charge the other engine battery.

Hope this helps,

Kevin