I hope you can help me with a boat wiring issue.
On my boat battery wiring, I have two batteries for my trolling motor, a 24 volt Motorguide. They are hooked up
- + to motor
- - on battery to + on 2nd battery
- - to trolling motor
The on board marine electrical battery charger has connections for two batteries. Do I just hook it up positive and negative on both batteries?
The reason I ask is the in line fuse on one battery was blown as I took it apart today.
Most dual output battery chargers are designed to be connected the way you had them.
The blown fuse may just be a fluke or your charger may not be designed to charge your batteries in series. Check with the manufacturer’s recommendations. If they say 12/24 volt systems, then you are good to go. If not, you will need to disconnect the batteries to charge or buy another charger.
I am building a 16′ wooden bass boat using the Glen-L design and it is about 80% complete. I am now getting ready to outfit the interior, build the helm, purchase my motor, etc.
I have visited your sister boat wiring site and it looks like just what I will need due to its simplified “plug and play ” approach. What I am looking for is advice on everything I will need to wire my boat using EzAcDc marine electrical.
My boat wiring needs include:
In summary, I need everything and look to your recommendation to help me get what I need to fully wire my boat from the boat wiring harness to fuses, circuit breakers, switches, etc.
Your boat sounds great! Thank you for your interest in the products at our sister site.
Here is the boat wiring that I would recommend.
- Fully wired eight switch marine electrical panel. This comes with one panel mounted 12 volt receptacle and you will want to add a second remote outlet.
- Boat wiring harness that quickly snaps together with the panel above.
- Smart Battery Switch system for two batteries. This includes cables, ground bus, and you will want to add a couple of battery boxes.
- Navigation lights are controlled by the nav/anc switch in your new switch panel. Wiring for split red and green lights and a single white stern light is included with the boat wiring harness. The site has a variety of Attwood LED navigation light kits that may suite your needs. All come with connectors so that they will snap right onto the new harness.
- I would run 8 AWG tinned wire for your trolling motor.
- Please send me the specs and length of total wire run for the power winch to determine the cable size requirements.
- Currently we do not stock a trolling motor connection. My preference in the Marinco Connect Pro System.
- You can use one of the switches on the new panel for the stereo. The new panel will even include a pre-printed “STEREO” switch cap. There is a ground, constant power (memory), and switched power coming off of the back of the switch for a stereo. We do not include speaker wire.
- The boat wiring harness has two breakouts for courtesy lights. The switch panel kit also includes a “COURTESY LIGHTS” switch cap.
- We do not have fish finders, but you can get power for your fish finder from one of the breakers on your new switch panel.
- The switch panel comes pre-wired with a horn button and the boat harness includes wiring for a horn.
- We also have boat horns that will attach easily onto the new harness.
- We do not have gauges. Most of the gauge wiring will be included with your engine harness.
- Our harness comes with one bilge pump and auto float switch connection. You can either run a second pump from one of the switch panel accessory wire breakouts or you can use the livewell pump breakout for a second pump.
- No additional fuse panel is needed. The switches have circuit breakers mounted directly below them on the panel. The main harness battery connection has an in-line circuit breaker for harness protection.
Thank you again for your consideration. I hope this helps,
My boat anchor winch is the Deck Mate 19 Small Boat Anchor Windlass from West Marine. The draw is 15 amps @ 12 volts and the winch includes a built in 15A circuit breaker. The length of wire from the helm to the power winch at the bow is roughly 9 feet. Please advise cable size requirement.
18′ run total @ 15 amps with 3% drop, I would run 10 AWG wire.
I am putting new batteries in my boat.
The trolling motor was hooked up with a red and black wire going to each battery. Wouldn’t this produce 12 volts? I checked the plug up front, and it has the same two red wires and two black wires going into the plug.
I have never seen a set up with two red and two black wires coming from a trolling motor. What is the proper way to wire this to get 24 volts to the motor?
Can you show me a diagram?
To make the install universal for 12 or 24 volt, your original boat wiring had a positive and negative to each battery.
Your boat probably has a receptacle similar to this one from Marinco. The 24 volt jumper is made in the mating plug. For added convenience, there is a charger plug that wires to the end of a 12v charger to charge your batteries in parallel.
Hope this helps,
Thanks, my motor is 24 volts, it has two sets of wires coming off the receptacle, two red, two black.
On each wire it has a label, “connect to battery 1”, “connect to battery 2”, etc. At the batteries, there are four wires coming out, 2 red, 2 black.
I believe you are correct, the plug in the front must convert it to 24 volts for the motor since both of sets connect to this receptacle.
I have connected a red and black to each battery. I guess it correct. I did not know a “plug” could make 24 volts to the motor when the batteries are wired separately for 12 volts going to the plug.
Thanks very much.
I changed out my 24 volt trolling motor for a 36. I’ve redone the boat wiring so that the batteries are in series, however I have three wires coming from my trolling motor plug (red, black, and orange)
Question: Do I omit the orange wire and just go with the black and red?
Like your site!!
Yes. Omit the orange wire if you do not need a 12 volt feed to your boat’s trolling motor panel.
Make sure that you have the appropriate circuit protection on your red wire at the battery.
I do have a follow-up question.
If my batteries are run in sequence and pulling 36 volts into my trolling motor, then why can’t I just take my three-bank charger and wire it similarly instead of using each bank (3) for each battery?
Using the same theory for wiring in a series; couldn’t I just use one charger and omit a three-bank charger?
Each bank on your charger is designed to recharge a single 12 volt battery. Since all batteries discharge and recharge differently, this method seems to be the most effective.
If you wanted to use single charger, it would need to be a 36 volt charger and have a method to monitor each battery to ensure the proper charge went to each battery.
Hope this helps,