Archive for the ‘VSR’ Category

Marine electrical questions?

June 28th, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Marine Ac/Dc attempts to answer your questions about boat wiring and marine electrical techniques, concepts, and products. We get lots of mail from folks in mid-project or who are just curious about their boat’s electrical setup.

There are loads of post already on the site which we hope you will browse through. If you’re trying to track down info about a more specific category, please use the search box in the upper right of this page or check out the list of various subjects farther down on this page.

If you aren’t able to find the info that you need to complete your particular boat wiring project, please send us an email at boatwiring@gmail.com.

Thank you for visiting. We look forward to hearing from you and hope that you will be able to come back often.

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Wiring, Bow Thruster, Circuit Protection, Corrosion, Cruisers, Gauge Panels, Harnesses, Marine Electrical, Navigation Lights, Pontoons, Runabouts, Signaling Devices, Switch Panels, Testing, Trolling Motors, Uncategorized, VSR, Wipers | Comments Off

Glen-L Wiring

January 30th, 2012 by Marine Ac/Dc

Kevin,

I am building a 16′ wooden bass boat using the Glen-L design and it is about 80% complete. I am now getting ready to outfit the interior, build the helm, purchase my motor, etc.

I have visited your sister boat wiring site and it looks like just what I will need due to its simplified “plug and play ” approach. What I am looking for is advice on everything I will need to wire my boat using EzAcDc marine electrical.

My boat wiring needs include:

In summary, I need everything and look to your recommendation to help me get what I need to fully wire my boat from the boat wiring harness to fuses, circuit breakers, switches, etc.

Thank you.

Kelly

Hi Kelly,

Your boat sounds great! Thank you for your interest in the products at our sister site.

Here is the boat wiring that I would recommend.

  • Fully wired eight switch marine electrical panel. This comes with one panel mounted 12 volt receptacle and you will want to add a second remote outlet.
  • Boat wiring harness that quickly snaps together with the panel above.
  • Smart Battery Switch system for two batteries. This includes cables, ground bus, and you will want to add a couple of battery boxes.
  • Navigation lights are controlled by the nav/anc switch in your new switch panel. Wiring for split red and green lights and a single white stern light is included with the boat wiring harness. The site has a variety of Attwood LED navigation light kits that may suite your needs. All come with connectors so that they will snap right onto the new harness.
  • I would run 8 AWG tinned wire for your trolling motor.
  • Please send me the specs and length of total wire run for the power winch to determine the cable size requirements.
  • Currently we do not stock a trolling motor connection. My preference in the Marinco Connect Pro System.
  • You can use one of the switches on the new panel for the stereo. The new panel will even include a pre-printed “STEREO” switch cap. There is a ground, constant power (memory), and switched power coming off of the back of the switch for a stereo. We do not include speaker wire.
  • The boat wiring harness has two breakouts for courtesy lights. The switch panel kit also includes a “COURTESY LIGHTS” switch cap.
  • We do not have fish finders, but you can get power for your fish finder from one of the breakers on your new switch panel.
  • The switch panel comes pre-wired with a horn button and the boat harness includes wiring for a horn.
  • We also have boat horns that will attach easily onto the new harness.
  • We do not have gauges. Most of the gauge wiring will be included with your engine harness.
  • Our harness comes with one bilge pump and auto float switch connection. You can either run a second pump from one of the switch panel accessory wire breakouts or you can use the livewell pump breakout for a second pump.
  • No additional fuse panel is needed. The switches have circuit breakers mounted directly below them on the panel. The main harness battery connection has an in-line circuit breaker for harness protection.

Thank you again for your consideration. I hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

My boat anchor winch is the Deck Mate 19 Small Boat Anchor Windlass from West Marine. The draw is 15 amps @ 12 volts and the winch includes a built in 15A circuit breaker. The length of wire from the helm to the power winch at the bow is roughly 9 feet. Please advise cable size requirement.

Thank you.

Kelly

Hi Kelly,

18′ run total @ 15 amps with 3% drop, I would run 10 AWG wire.

Kevin

Posted in Anchor Lights, Battery cables, Battery Switch, Bilge Pumps, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Bow Light, Circuit Protection, Courtesy Lights, Engine Harness, Fuel Gauge, Gauge Panels, Harnesses, Harnesses-DC, Horn, LED Lights, Marine Electrical, Masthead Lights, Navigation Lights, Rope Lights, Smart Battery Switch, Switch Panels, Trolling Motors, VSR | Comments Off

Twin Inboard Wiring

May 23rd, 2011 by Kevin Hannula

Hello Kevin,

I’m trying to figure out my boat wiring and whether it is how it really should be wired.

It’s a twin inboard engine boat with two starter batteries and a house bank. The system includes a generator and Magnum inverter/charger. There’s also a Magnum Smart Battery Combiner wired in, as well as VSR smart battery switches on both starter batteries.

It appears that the house batteries only supply the inverter – all the 12 volt house load is on the starter batteries.A smart battery switch system takes a lot of confusion out of your marine electrical setup

There are also 3 battery on/off switches. One for each starter battery. The other is inline with the generator but I’m not sure which battery – I’m still investigating.

Given these components, how would you recommend that I hook everything up?

Thanks for your help!

Sang

Hi Sang,

My recommendation would be to either connect the 12 volt house loads to the house battery bank or add a second bank for your house and keep the inverter separate. My preference is to always have fresh starting batteries (or at least one).

If you add a bank, you can simply add another VSR smart battery switch between the house and inverter bank to allow all batteries to be charged while your engines are running.

Happy boat wiring,

Kevin

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Marine Electrical, Runabouts, VSR | Comments Off

Boat Wiring Diagram for 1966 TriHull?

March 7th, 2011 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

Ok, so I just recently purchased a 1966 18ft Caravelle trihull boat. Caravelle Trihull

Are there any boat wiring diagrams or anything like that for me to use for the rebuild?

Jake

Hi Jake,

Probably not. You may be able to use our standard boat wiring color table combined with a meter to decipher the wires. Most likely you will end up pulling new wires for circuits that just don’t work anymore.

Our partners at EzAcDc have everything from bulk boat wire to snap together boat wiring systems that would work great in your boat.

Good luck,

Kevin

Posted in Battery Switch, Bilge Pumps, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Gauge Panels, Harnesses, Harnesses-Dash, Harnesses-DC, Horn, Ignition Switch, Marine Electrical, Navigation Lights, Signaling Devices, Switch Panels, Trim, Voltmeter, VSR | Comments Off

How many VSRs?

December 20th, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

I have a 1988 32′ Bayliner with two engines. There are four batteries on the boat: two for starting -one battery for each engine – and two batteries for the house.

I am considering the addition of a VSR smart battery switch to my marine electrical. How would I do the boat wiring for this? Would I need more than one VSR?1988 Bayliner 32

Also, I have two battery selector switches, one for each bank, shore power, and battery charger.

Bill

Hi Bill,

I would recommend two VSRs for your application. One between your port engine and house battery and another between your starboard engine and house battery.

Each VSR would be connected around your battery switches.

  • Run an 8 awg wire from one VSR terminal to the BAT1 post on your battery switch and another 8 awg wire from the other VSR terminal to the BAT2 post on your battery switch.
  • Bat 1 for each switch will be the respective engine battery and Bat 2 will be the house battery bank.
  • Under normal operation, put both battery switches in Pos1. The engine will charge its battery first and then charge the house battery bank.
  • If only one engine is running or only one alternator is working, once the house battery has charged above 13/7 volts, the VSR on the other engine will engage and charge the other engine battery.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Cruisers, Marine Electrical, Pontoons, Runabouts, Shore Power, VSR | Comments Off

Smart switching with two alternators?

December 6th, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Hello,

I’m replacing all of the batteries and the battery charger on my marine electrical system.

I have two starters (one for each engine), and a house bank of batteries. I’m going to install a new two or three channel three-stage electronic charger for the batteries. Volvo Penta alternator

The one part I’m not clear on is what I need in between the two alternators (one per engine) and the starter and house batteries. Should I use just one VSR smart battery switch in between just one of the starter batteries and the house bank? Or, is there someway to wire all three together using multiple VSRs?

Thanks for the help,

Jason

Hi Jason,

I would recommend two VSRs for your boat wiring.

You will want one between your port engine and house battery and another between your starboard engine and house battery. Each VSR would be connected around your battery switches.

  • Run an 8 AWG wire from one VSR terminal to the BAT1 post on your battery switch
  • Run another 8 awg wire from the other VSR terminal to the BAT2 post on your battery switch
  • Bat 1 for each switch will be the respective engine battery and Bat 2 will be the house battery bank
  • Under normal operation, put both battery switches in Pos1. The engine will charge it’s battery first and then charge the house battery bank.
  • In an emergency situation, turn your battery switch to either BOTH to get your engine started.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Cruisers, Marine Electrical, Runabouts, VSR | Comments Off

Six batteries to ground plate?

November 8th, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Sir,

My marine electrical system has two 12 volt batteries in series and four in parallel.

Should I ground each boat battery (each negative of each battery) to my Guest Dynaplate – or just the negative one used in the end run?

Also, any problem with using the same plate for multiple voltage grounding (i.e. 12v, 24v etc.) ?

Thanks in advance

James

Hi James,

  • If your two 12 volt series batteries are only used for a trolling motor and not connected to any common charging system, I would completely leave them off of the Dynaplate – just run a ground wire from the ground bus to the dynaplate. Run a battery cable from the ground bus to each battery negative in the four in parallel pack and limit the boat wiring connected to each individual battery.
  • If you have a charging system similar to the BEP Trolling Motor VSR – do not connect the grounds to the Dynaplate.
  • If your four in parallel pack battery ground is already connected to one of the two 12 volt battery grounds, it is already tied to the Dynaplate.
  • If you want to keep the parallel batteries connected to the series battery, I would run a battery cable from your ground bus to the negative on the first battery in series. I would call battery #1 the one that has a negative cable connected to your trolling motor (or other 24 volt device) and the positive cable connects to the negative of battery 2. DO NOT run a cable from the negative of battery 2 of the 2-12v series batteries to your Dynaplate. This will create a dead short with no circuit protection and cause a fire.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Boat Batteries, Boat Wiring, Circuit Protection, Corrosion, Cruisers, Marine Electrical, Voltmeter, VSR | Comments Off

Big Boat Battery Basics

November 1st, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Kevin,

I have twin Volvo engines and Westerbeke generator and would like your advice on my marine electrical setup.

With both engines running and/or generator running with all batteries combined is there a conflict from the three alternators? Do they all put out equally or is one of them going to do most of the work?

Engines are each about 65 amp and generator is 50 amp. Then with generator running, I have built-in charger connected to house and start batteries.Westerbeke Generator

I am looking for a couple of options on how the boat wiring could be set up? All alternators are factory. Starboard engine cranks off house agm batteries and port and generator crank off a single battery bank.

Bo

Hi Bo,

This is a very common marine electrical configuration. The batteries limit the output and there should be no harm to your alternators.

My preference would be to have a battery for each engine and a separate battery or bank of batteries for the house/generator.

Two options configuring your boat wiring:

Manual switch operation

  • Use a battery selector switch for each engine.
  • The port engine start cable is connected to the common post on the switch.
  • The port start battery is connected to the #1 post on the switch and the house battery bank is connected to the #2 post.
  • The starboard engine start cable is connected to the common post on the switch.
  • The starboard start battery is connected to the #1 post on the switch and the house battery bank is connected to the #2 post.
  • The generator is connected directly to the house battery.
  • The house loads are connected to the house battery with circuit protection.

How it works

  • While underway, run the battery switches in BOTH,1, or 2. BOTH parallels the entire system, 1 will run the engines only off of their start batteries, and 2 will run the engines only off of the house battery.
  • While anchored or running DC loads without the engine running, put the switches in any position BUT BOTH. This will help prevent a dead starting battery. If one engine battery is dead, put both battery switches in the BOTH position to perform an emergency parallel

Automatic

  • Use an on/off battery switch for each engine.
  • The port engine start cable is connected to one post on the switch.
  • The port start battery is connected to the other post on the switch.
  • The starboard engine start cable is connected to one post on the switch.
  • The starboard start battery is connected to the other post on the switch.
  • Use an on/off battery switch between the port and starboard engine batteries as an emergency start switch. This would be connected between the two positive battery posts.
  • Install a VSR between your port engine battery positive and your house battery positive.
  • Install a second VSR between your starboard engine battery positive and your house battery positive.

How it works

  • While underway, turn both engine battery switches on. The VSR will do all of the logic that decides when to start charging the house battery.
  • There is no need to change the battery switch position while you are anchored. The VSR will automatically disconnect the circuit between the house battery and the engine battery if the system voltage starts to drop.
  • The third ON/OFF battery switch is only turned on in a emergency start situation.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Wiring, Circuit Protection, Cruisers, Marine Electrical, Pontoons, Runabouts, Shore Power, VSR | Comments Off

VSR OK with weak alternator?

October 4th, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Hi Kevin,

I’m installing a dual sense VSR smart battery switch system.

Your previous boat wiring posts often mention “total length” of wire. Do you mean everything or just the longest run of one cable? It might be a dumb question as I am familiar with voltage drops and resistance.

My other question is: I have a group 27 battery to run two downriggers and a Optima battery. I’m not sure what size it is – yellow plastic top 750 cranking amps – would this work or do I need to get another 27 battery for VSR to work properly?

Regards,

Paul

Hi Paul,1989 Force 85

Ideally, you would want to look at a complete circuit. For a VSR, the complete circuit would be from battery 1 to VSR to battery 2 plus the length of the ground path between the two batteries.

For a marine electrical charging circuit, you usually size the boat wiring for the maximum current that the charging device can produce. When the battery comes closer to a complete charge, it will take less current, and there will be less voltage drop.

The VSR does not care what type of battery it is connected to. It monitors both battery voltages. If either one hits 13.7 volts, it completes the circuit between them. If the system drops below 12.6 volts, it opens the circuit between them.

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Many thanks for helping me with this boat wiring project.

Here’s a little more information on my setup. I have a Force 120 HP outboard which for some weak reason other than the cost of copper it only produces 7-9 amperes.

If I hook this up to a discharge group 27 battery could I smoke the alternater or is this scenario really a extreme case? I’m tempted to just wire it up and go fishing. What do you think? As long as I keep the batteries at a resonable voltage the alternater should be able to work right?

Regards,

Paul

Hi Paul,

I own a 1989 85 HP Force with one of those weak alternators. I have run a VSR for several years and the alternator still works. When possible, I plug in my portable battery charger to top off the system.

Kevin

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Wiring, Cruisers, Marine Electrical, Pontoons, Runabouts, VSR | Comments Off

Low voltage causing VSR chatter

June 7th, 2010 by Kevin Hannula

Hello,

Last year I installed a VSR cluster on my 23’ center console. I have a dedicated starting battery and a house battery. All the electronics are hooked up to the house, and everything is wired according to the diagram that came with the cluster. The cluster includes a BEP VSR smart battery switch, a manual on/off battery switch for the house system, a manual on/off for the starting battery, and a manual on/off switch for emergency parallel.EzAcDc takes the guesswork out of your project with snap-together boat wiring

After a winter lay-up, and with fully charged batteries, I went to start my boat this weekend but it seemed as though the batteries were dead. Both starting and house switches were “on” and the parallel was “off”. I then shut the house off and the engine would turn over at that point. I did this process twice and confirmed that the engine would only start when the house was in the “off” position.

With the engine off, the red light of the VSR switch was on indicating that the starting battery was charged and both batteries were now in parallel. I ran some lights on the boat to draw down some of the charge and the switch kicked off isolating the batteries. But then it started clicking on for a few seconds, then off. It did this continuously for 5 minutes until I shut everything down. I think I read that this was “chattering”. Any idea what’s going on?

Thanks!

John L

Hi John,

You are definitely experiencing chatter from the VSR. BEP has made a revision to the timing circuit on all of their VSRs to prevent this. The latest version needs to have 5 seconds of constant high voltage to make the relay latch and 5 seconds of low voltage to make to relay open up.

On your application, as soon as your voltage settles, the relay should stop chattering. You can force this by turning off the battery switch, starting your engine, or turning on a larger DC load to force the relay open or closed.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Thanks Kevin,

I guess I’m unsure about why this chattering is taking place – the whole marine electrical system was fine last summer. I’ve done what you noted to force the voltage to settle and here are the results:

  1. Shut house battery switch off – the VSR red light goes off and chattering stops
  2. Put the emergency parallel switch on – VSR red light goes off and chattering stops
  3. Attached an external battery charger w/ a 2 am float charge to the house – VSR red light stays on and chattering stops

Also, I ran the engine and the chattering continues during engine operation.

Since I can’t operate the boat in any of the above configurations (emergency parallel would defeat the purpose of this whole setup) I’m wondering if my only option is to replace the VSR with the corrected version you noted? Just can’t figure out why it worked all last summer and it’s not working now.

Thanks again!

Hi John,

Sorry for the delay.

I have been thinking about your problem.

If the system ran fine last year, even though you may have one of the older VSRs, that may not be the entire problem.

The VSR is chattering because the voltage is not staying high. A loose connection anywhere in the system would cause a high resistance and induce enough of a voltage drop to make the unit chatter. As soon as the high current stops, the voltage shoots back up again, the relay latches closed, and the cycle starts over again.

  • Check all battery cluster connections
  • Check all battery connections – replace wing nuts with locking nuts if possible.
  • Perform a load test on each battery to ensure that you do not have a bad battery cell.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Posted in Battery Charger, Battery Switch, Boat Wiring, Marine Electrical, VSR | Comments Off